For years I've avoided the Thruway and enjoyed Route 20's splendor on numerous trips to the Chautauqua Institution. And though they are many, I have never stopped to enjoy its villages' charms, the kind the Kinks' Ray Davies sings of in “Victoria”, “Stately homes for the lords, croquet lawns, village greens … Victoria was my Queen. Land of hope and gloria … Land of my Victoria”. While she may have been Davies' Queen, Victoria is definitely king in this county. And it was time to get out of the car and experience some of this royalty in a not exactly regal way-on foot.
First up was Silver Creek, where the sugar sweet smell from Petri Baking Products filled the air of its village green and beyond. The Capello Arms, circa 1878, was the most notable home on Main Street, and scenic views of Lake Erie can be had down both Jackson St. and Lake Ave., where at road's end and lake's shore, Hideaway Bay offers lakeside dining. Afterwards grab a bag of freshly made cookies at Petri's and you're set for the rest of the trip.
On to Fredonia. Or Freedonia as the Marx Brothers called it in their movie “Duck Soup”, where that Victorian feeling begins to gather momentum, as a walk down Main Street will testify to, through village green Barker Commons, to the Fredonia Opera House, rumored to have played host to a quick performance by Groucho and gang, between shows in Buffalo and Erie, Pa. Stop by or call and Director Rick Davis is happy to give you an impromptu, yet thorough tour of the historic house, and the folks at Barker Museum stand ready to do likewise.
Duncan Hines discovered The White Inn in the 1930's, and included it in his “Family of Fine Restaurants”. It's one of the few that remains operating, and still serving outstanding meals to those willing to enjoy them, its ambience and overnight accommodations today.
Pink Floyd's “Comfortably Numb” blared from BJ's speakers, its staff readying for the evening's imbibing, as Fredonia is home to Fredonia State College, and provides many respites for its thirsty students. For those willing to shop, the walk around town offers abundant opportunities, from gourmet coffee at Intermezzo, baked goods at Upper Crust, to eclectic gifts and antiques at Tower Gifts and Randy's. Summer Saturdays and through mid-October Barker Commons hosts a farmer's market. Upcoming events include the “Harvest Moon Cemetery Tour”, Oct. 19th & 20th, and the “Miracle on Main St.”, on Dec. 1st.
Motoring south through the Lake Erie grape belt you come to Westfield, known for its varied antique shops, of which there are plenty along East Main St. The McClurg Museum, operated by the Chautauqua County Historical Society, is the centerpiece of
Westfield's village green called Moore Park. Filled with artifacts from this historically rich county, several of its rooms are furnished in grand Victorian style. Impromptu tours are available. Across the street is the outstanding Patterson Library, complete with its own art gallery, displaying the works of regional artists, and Skates, City, Land And Sea, the current exhibit showcases outstanding examples of said artists, runs through Feb 8th.
Though many of the lords have left Westfield, William Seward generations ago, and more recently Welch's opted out for Massachusetts, fortunately they left behind what to this traveler is Westfield's great treasure-stately homes. Leading off on East Main is the
Candlelight Lodge and its neighboring Victorians. Admire them form the auto, but fully appreciate them on foot. And to all who enjoy the beauty of such homes, a South Portage Street (Route 394) stroll is essential. Victorian Christmas in Westfield, Nov. 16th, 17th, & 18th, which includes the Holly House Tour, is an opportunity to get up close and inside several of these classics.
Finally it is on to Mayville, the county seat as locals say, down Route 394. As I drive through, I have always thrilled at the sight of Chautauqua Lake while descending Erie St. (Route 394). It is as though I were on a roller coaster, had reached the summit, and when beginning the descent, at that tipping point, the lake in view, my entire nervous system responds with the sensation that I have entered my “Land of hope and gloria”-Chautauqua. And from on foot, the views are more varied, and just as magnificent.
At the hill's bottom, alongside the lake, lies the largest of the trip's green spaces, Mayville's Lakeside Park, where a walk along shore is most refreshing. If you're so inclined you can launch your boat here, or catch a cruise on the recently renovated Chautauqua Belle, an authentic replica of a Mississippi River steam powered paddle wheeler, which runs from May through October.
Just a bit down 394, the Red Brick Farm offers a variety of retail outlets, beautiful gardens, and landscaped grounds. And while Mayville annually hosts a variety of events, including the Mayville Bluegrass Festival, a Fourth of July parade and fireworks, there is a new game in town. Cuisine. While Webb's and Dick's Harbor House are reliable, old standbys, fine dining has made its way on shore. Starting with the Watermark, where you can literally tie up your boat, and jump ashore for dinner. Just above the Watermark is the House on the Hill, open for breakfast and lunch. Back at the Red Brick, La Fleur specializes in fine French dining. In the heart of Mayville, a rather unlikely sight has appeared, a French bakery called Bonjour. And while walk-ins are always welcome at these spots, Olive's, now located down Route 394, just outside the village at Chautauqua
Suites, is so popular, and so good I might add, that reservations are recommended, as is a trip for you to this beautiful “Land of hope and gloria. Land of my Victoria”.
