How to Wax a Snowboard

Step 1:

Find a suitable place to work. There will be a fair amount of excess wax shaved off the board when you begin scraping so ensure that you can sweep the floor once you've done. Outside is best but if the weather is foul then try to find somewhere with a hard floor for easy clean up.

Step 2:

You will need a sturdy surface to work on. Snowboard clamps can be bought from specialist retailers although any level surface will suffice. Two chairs placed approximately a metre apart with the snowboard placed on top makes for a good in-chalet table; just don't let the reps find out!

Step 3:

Remove the bindings. As you will be heating the base of the board by dripping hot wax onto it and then smoothing it out with an iron, the air in the binding holes will expand and contract as it is heated and cools. This can cause vacuum problems within the holes, causing the base to be pushed out or even to bend and buckle the threads on the binding screws. This obviously should be avoided to keep your snowboard in tip-top condition. Make a note of your stance positions before you remove your bindings so that you can set them up again properly when you are finished waxing.

Step 4:

Take an old iron, not the one you use to do all your shirts, as this will now be your waxing iron and allow it to heat up to a medium temperature. Despite what some people say, steam irons can be used for waxing snowboards, just make sure that there is no water in it before you start. Conversely, you can buy specialist snowboard wax irons from many retailers.

Step 5:

Assuming you are using an old steam iron, turn it upside down so that the point is facing the snowboard. This will provide a focal point for the wax to drip from. Then, take the wax cake and apply it gently to the iron; if the wax begins to smoke, then the iron is too hot and you should turn it down slightly before trying again. If the wax does not melt then the iron is too cold, turn it up until the wax melts but does not smoke. Starting from one end and one side of the board, begin to dribble a line of wax along the full length until you reach about 5-6” from the end of the board. Repeat this process at 2” intervals until there are several wax lines covering the board.

Step 6:

Take the iron and place it on the board with the wide end facing away from you. With a light amount of pressure, push the iron slowly along the length of the board, smoothing out the wax and ensuring that it covers all of the base. Although you should be moving the iron slowly, to ensure that the wax soaks into the board, make sure that you don't leave it in one place for too long, as this can damage the base.

Step 7:

Once you have ensured that the base is completely covered in wax, leave the wax to cool for approximately 30 minutes to an hour. This ensures that the wax has time to sufficiently cool and permeate into the pores of the board. This will help protect the base when you are riding and ensures a longer life for your board.

Step 8:

Now it is time to scrape a large proportion of that wax off! Too much wax will slow your board as it causes friction on the snow, too little will cause the base to come into contact with the snow, also causing friction. The trick is to have a tiny sliver of wax on the base to ensure that your board glides along with ease.

Take a snowboard wax scraper, plastic scrapers are more forgiving but dull easier, while metal scrapers retain their edge but can end up scraping your base if you are not careful. Hold the scraper length ways at a 45 degree angle with the uppermost edge furthest from you. Apply pressure from the back of the scraper with your thumbs and from the front with the rest of your fingers. Place the scraper at one end of the board and push away from you to take off some of the wax. This is easier than pulling towards you as your body-weight will do some of the work for you. Use long, straight scraping motions to remove the wax in a uniform manner. Scrape away the wax until you have a very thin sliver left on the base.

Step 9:

Take a dual-sided sponge, the type with a rough bit of material on top of some spongy material and polish the remaining wax with the rough side. Similar material can be bought separately in sheets and this works equally as well. Use wide circular motions at first, decreasing the size of the circle until the wax is sufficiently polished. This process provides the final bit of sealing of the pores of the base as well as smoothing the surface to reduce friction.

Finally:

Replace the bindings and go shredding! Safe in the knowledge that your board is protected and you'll be going as fast as the conditions allow.